Home in Barcelona

It's hard to believe that we've been in Barcelona for almost three weeks already! We spent the first week settling into the new place, a comfortable apartment across the street from the beach in Diagonal Mar.

We are so lucky to have so many great friends visiting Barcelona during our trip. Together we saw some stunning Gaudi masterpieces, ate traditional paellas and tapas, enjoyed home cooked meals, made some damn tasty crepes, watched World Cup games and that really long Wimbledon match, bought gummy candies and fruit at the boqueria, had awesome American brunch, and laughed, a lot.


A lot of people ask us if we could see ourselves living in any of the cities we've been to so far. What we've realized being on the road for the last few months is that we could live almost anywhere as long as our families and friends are around us. Being in a country where we could barely speak the language, our friends actually made us feel at home in Barcelona.

And to top things off, the annual Hong family reunion is starting this Sunday and will be taking place in Barcelona and Madrid!!! 8 Adults + 7 grandkids = fun/crazy times ahead :)

p.s. A big thanks to Kristin, Mike, Kimberle, Brian, Philip and Ilona for making their way here to see us. We are also very grateful to James' high school friend Kelly and her family for the restaurant tips, delicious home cooked paella (best we've ever had), and most of all, the babysitter recommendation!

Sevilla

We spent about 10 days in Seville, the capital of Southern Spain. We rented an apartment in the historic center part of the town and explored everything by foot. The city is beautiful and every corner you turn makes for a great photo op.



Plaza de España, built in 1928 for the World's Fair and currently under reconstruction. (We thought the China Pavilion was magnificent, but the scale of this plaza was breathtaking.)





Cathedral of Seville, largest gothic church in the world constructed in the 1400-1500s. (Another one at the site of a former mosque)


Tomb of Christopher Columbus inside the Cathedral



Alcázar, royal palace (originally a Moorish fort). Beautiful gardens for strolling.





Before we arrived in Spain, we were told by many people to watch out for thieves and other petty crimes. There were a few women by the Cathedral who tried to offer me some herbs and in my high defense, I declined to engage them. Apparently once you hold the herb, they pester you for money. While at the Spanish Plaza, we also overheard a woman complaining about a man who attempted to grab her purse. I guess it's quite easy to get distracted when looking at such beautiful monuments.

One of the things we missed out on in Seville was attending a Flamenco dance show. The shows were typically after 9pm and without a babysitter, it was just not possible. But we certainly didn't miss out on the food since Seville is supposedly where tapas were invented. We went to a couple of tapas places and sampled a variety of delicious food. Our only complaint was the smoky rooms but that's expected everywhere in Spain (and Europe).




We ate all that?

After almost a month in Andalusia, we left Seville on a train to Barcelona. Southern Spain is such a culturally rich region with well preserved historical sights. I'm glad that our experiences were captured on film and on this blog, but it is definitely a place that I'd like to return to one day.


Córdoba

We got the Spanish Eurail Pass since we'll be taking the train through Granada - Cordoba - Seville - Barcelona - Madrid. But it turns out that there are additional booking fees on top of the flat rate for each ticket. We're probably not going to break even on this pass unless we do more trips around the country.

We took a two hour train ride from Granada to Cordoba. Most people probably spend a day in Cordoba, but we spent an entire week here. It was nice to just relax and take in the city at our own pace. Unlike most of our past stays in apartments, we stayed at a hotel this time. It was less convenient since we didn't have a kitchen but was otherwise very comfortable. The hotel was also very convenient, being right outside the old city walls.

Cordoba was quite hot but still very tolerable. Surprisingly the air temperature registered 39 degrees Celcius (102.2F), but it didn't really feel that hot. The main attraction of Cordoba is the Mezquita, or the Great Mosque of Cordoba (AKA the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption). It is a Catholic church that is built on top of a mosque, that was built on top of a Christian church. One can visibly appreciate the layers of history in this monument. The interior of the Mezquita is a huge hall with seemingly endless columns and double arches. It was interesting to see all the Catholic symbols surrounded by Muslim architecture.








Other activities we enjoyed include visiting the Alcazaba, the ruins of a Roman temple and meandering through the city under the shade.







In culinary updates, we finally enjoyed some tapas and local cuisine for lunch. We continue to struggle with the late restaurant opening hours for dinner and our baby's early bedtime, but luckily the hotel bar served decent food all day long. We must confess though that we did try a Chinese restaurant and a Japanese restaurant during our time in Cordoba, along with a Burger King dinner one evening. Sometimes you just need a break from all the jamon, aceitunas, croquetas, boquerones and patatas.


Granada Dreams

We spent a week in Granada and stayed in two different parts of town. The first place was near Plaza Nueva in the El Albayzín, the city's old Moorish district. We had a spectacular view of the Alhambra, the majestic Moorish palaces and fortress complex on the hills.



It's easy to get lost walking through the neighborhood of El Albayzín. Lots of winding and narrow streets and alleyways teaming with white washed homes. One of the most beautiful lookout points is from La Plaza de San Nicolas, where you can see the Alhambra in the foreground of the snowcapped Sierra Nevada mountain range.


(Jackson enjoyed the view and got a good whiff of the joint the guy behind us was smoking)

We visited the city's Cathedral, a very large Gothic styled church that took over 180 years to complete. I wish we did the audio guide since it's hard to appreciate all the details of the design and architecture.


After a few days in El Albayzín, we moved to an apartment near the University of Granada, a more suburban part of town.


It was nice to be away from the more touristy areas and enjoy living amongst the locals. We (I) cooked, watched American television in Spanish and took siestas. The first apartment didn't have a washer so it was nice to be able to do laundry at the second place. I was initially disappointed by the lack of a dryer but everything dried beautifully under the sun in one afternoon, with a makeshift clothesline using a broomstick between two chairs on the deck.

One thing we noticed in the university neighborhood was the presence of graffiti on every block. Some random tags but mostly political statements including words like "Libertad", "Capitalismo", and the anarchism symbol. I wonder if this is unique to this area or if it is fairly common across Spain.


The highlight of our time in Granada came near the end of our stay - visiting Alhambra. We had to reserve entry tickets a week in advance and were only able to visit during our allotted time. We arrived an hour prior to our entry time as indicated on all guides only to find ourselves waiting outside the entrance for no good reason. I think it's a ploy to get you to browse the gift shop outside the entrance for an hour.


Alhambra is a sprawling complex of palaces, gardens and the alcazaba (fortress). The visit took us three hours! This time we did go with the audio guide. It was interesting to hear about the history but a bit cheesy as the narrator was supposed to be Washington Irving, the famous writer who started the tourist rush to Alhambra in the mid-1800s.

Nasrid Palaces (Royal quarters consisting of intricately designed facades, rooms and courtyards)



(Amazing details of the ceiling)



Alcazaba (Moorish fortress)




Generalife (Summer Palace of the royals, though only a 20 minute walk from the main palace)





Next up, Cordoba!


First Days in Andalusia: Málaga

While planning for our trip to Spain in the midst of volcano related airport shutdowns and airline strikes, we were starting to consider back up plans in case we couldn't make it. In fact, LHR was closed the morning of the day we flew out to Málaga. But somehow all the stars aligned for us and here we are, in beautiful Andalusia (province in southern Spain).

Málaga is the second most populous city of Andalusia and is one of the oldest cities in the world. It is also the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and Antonio Banderas (somehow I don't feel that they belong in the same sentence yet they are often cited together). James had first heard about the city when his former employer HP held an offsite there. He couldn't go back then and had always wanted to see what everyone was raving about.

We rented a small house near Plaza de la Merced in Málaga. I initially thought it was an empty neighborhood since all the homes had their window shutters closed. But upon entering the home, I could clearly hear my neighbors. Perhaps the shutters are closed to keep privacy or to keep the house cool, but it makes the ground level living area quite dark and depressing.

Here we are in front of our house and at Plaza de la Merced. Picasso grew up in one of the yellow apartments by the Plaza.



One of the things we really had to adjust to was the Spanish schedule. Most business hours are from 10am-2pm, then from 5pm-8pm. Restaurants are open from 1pm - 4pm, then from 8pm-I don't know when since we're never out that late. Our schedule is dictated by master Jackson, who wakes up at 6am and goes down for the night at 8pm promptly (with a morning and an afternoon nap sandwiched in). To minimize disruptions to his schedule, our daily routine consisted of eating pastries for breakfast, eat out for lunch at 1pm and dine in for dinner. Sadly we have not had a tapas night since we got here and the only take out options at night are shwarmas, pizzas and a surprisingly good Chinese restaurant. The only meals I cook are for Jackson since cooking a dinner for us would require too many basic ingredients that our kitchen lacked (like oil, salt and pepper).

The weather has been spectacular, sunny and 70s every day. We walked around the city, toured the Alcazaba (a moorish fort), walked up to the Gibralfaro castle, and visited the Picasso museum.





We also took a day trip to Marbella (1 hr by bus), a luxury resort town that's like Spain's St. Tropez. Lots of fancy cars and big yachts by Puerto Banus, along with high end shopping.




In contrast to Puerto Banus, the Casco Antiguo (Old Quarter) of Marbella was very charming, with narrow and winding cobblestone streets. We visited during siesta hours so the stores were all closed. It was actually quite nice to stroll along the empty streets.



After a week in Málaga, we took a 2 hour bus ride to Granada...